The Use of “Yaşmak” in the Capital Istanbul in the Late Ottoman Empire

Abdulhalim Oflaz; Makul Yıldırım

Makale detayları

The Use of “Yaşmak” in the Capital Istanbul in the Late Ottoman Empire

Yazarlar:

Abdulhalim Oflaz | Makul Yıldırım

Yayıncı:

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan University

Ana Başlıklar:

Karşılaştırmalı Dini Araştırmalar | İslam Araştırmaları (Diğer)

Dergi:

Rize İlahiyat Dergisi Issue 29, pp.135-150

Belge Tipi:

Makale

Yayın Tarihi:

10/2025

Belge Dili:

Türkçe

Document ID (Org No.):

2001340747

pISSN:

2980-0331

Anahtar kelimeler:

Özet:

 In the Ottoman Empire, womens traditional street clothing was the ferace and its complementary element, the yashmak. This study focuses on the use of yashmak rather than the ferace. The yashmak was a two-piece, generally made of a muslin, and was a mandatory cover. It is known that yashmak was generally used in Istanbul starting from the 16th century. As a rule, women would go out on the streets with their yashmaks covering their faces; however, this face covering, which was supposed to be used for modesty purposes, turned into an element of decoration rather than a cover. Moreover, it was not only the quality of the veils that changed; the feraces used as an upper garment also had their share of this change. The state took harsh measures against this change and issued various decrees containing threatening statements. It was emphasized that the survival of the Ottoman State was possible with the religion of Islam and that it was necessary to be careful to comply with its requirements, and it was stated that Muslim women should dress in a way that was in accordance with the motto of Islam. In this study, after stating the general issues regarding veiling as a religious obligation, the use of yashmak, the age of use and the changes over time in the capital of the state, Istanbul, were examined in detail. The states attempts to relax the rules of veiling for women, and in particular its attitude towards the changes in the use of yashmak, were tried to be understood. An independent study on the use of yashmak was encountered in the literature. It is important to understand the use of yashmak, which is a complementary element of the veiling, which is one of the focal points of the discussions on modernity and the addressee of the change, in terms of the meaning it contains. The study, which is limited to Istanbul as a location, covers the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Using historical document analysis and qualitative research methods, the changes in the use of yashmak, which can be evaluated in the context of the prototype of modernity, and the states approach to the subject were examined. Although no independent study specifically addressing the use of yashmak was found as a result of the literature research, a general framework was created on the subject by making use of archive documents and historical sources that include deficiencies related to the subject, as well as literary works, accounts of travelers who were living witnesses of the period, newspaper reports, and works written by ladies of the Ottoman dynasty who wrote their memoirs. As a result of the findings obtained, the change in the use of yashmak or the attempts of women to relax the rules of hijab in general can be evaluated as the visible part of the social change. Women probably knew what kind of problems they could encounter if they acted contrary to the rules imposed by the order they were in. However, this was not perceived as a sufficient reason for them to dress as dictated by the law. In fact, this imposed style of clothing was rejected by women and the use of appropriate yashmak continued to occupy the agenda as an unpatchable problem.

 In the Ottoman Empire, womens traditional street clothing was the ferace and its complementary element, the yashmak. This study focuses on the use of yashmak rather than the ferace. The yashmak was a two-piece, generally made of a muslin, and was a mandatory cover. It is known that yashmak was generally used in Istanbul starting from the 16th century. As a rule, women would go out on the streets with their yashmaks covering their faces; however, this face covering, which was supposed to be used for modesty purposes, turned into an element of decoration rather than a cover. Moreover, it was not only the quality of the veils that changed; the feraces used as an upper garment also had their share of this change. The state took harsh measures against this change and issued various decrees containing threatening statements. It was emphasized that the survival of the Ottoman State was possible with the religion of Islam and that it was necessary to be careful to comply with its requirements, and it was stated that Muslim women should dress in a way that was in accordance with the motto of Islam. In this study, after stating the general issues regarding veiling as a religious obligation, the use of yashmak, the age of use and the changes over time in the capital of the state, Istanbul, were examined in detail. The states attempts to relax the rules of veiling for women, and in particular its attitude towards the changes in the use of yashmak, were tried to be understood. An independent study on the use of yashmak was encountered in the literature. It is important to understand the use of yashmak, which is a complementary element of the veiling, which is one of the focal points of the discussions on modernity and the addressee of the change, in terms of the meaning it contains. The study, which is limited to Istanbul as a location, covers the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Using historical document analysis and qualitative research methods, the changes in the use of yashmak, which can be evaluated in the context of the prototype of modernity, and the states approach to the subject were examined. Although no independent study specifically addressing the use of yashmak was found as a result of the literature research, a general framework was created on the subject by making use of archive documents and historical sources that include deficiencies related to the subject, as well as literary works, accounts of travelers who were living witnesses of the period, newspaper reports, and works written by ladies of the Ottoman dynasty who wrote their memoirs. As a result of the findings obtained, the change in the use of yashmak or the attempts of women to relax the rules of hijab in general can be evaluated as the visible part of the social change. Women probably knew what kind of problems they could encounter if they acted contrary to the rules imposed by the order they were in. However, this was not perceived as a sufficient reason for them to dress as dictated by the law. In fact, this imposed style of clothing was rejected by women and the use of appropriate yashmak continued to occupy the agenda as an unpatchable problem.

 In the Ottoman Empire, womens traditional street clothing was the ferace and its complementary element, the yashmak. This study focuses on the use of yashmak rather than the ferace. The yashmak was a two-piece, generally made of a muslin, and was a mandatory cover. It is known that yashmak was generally used in Istanbul starting from the 16th century. As a rule, women would go out on the streets with their yashmaks covering their faces; however, this face covering, which was supposed to be used for modesty purposes, turned into an element of decoration rather than a cover. Moreover, it was not only the quality of the veils that changed; the feraces used as an upper garment also had their share of this change. The state took harsh measures against this change and issued various decrees containing threatening statements. It was emphasized that the survival of the Ottoman State was possible with the religion of Islam and that it was necessary to be careful to comply with its requirements, and it was stated that Muslim women should dress in a way that was in accordance with the motto of Islam. In this study, after stating the general issues regarding veiling as a religious obligation, the use of yashmak, the age of use and the changes over time in the capital of the state, Istanbul, were examined in detail. The states attempts to relax the rules of veiling for women, and in particular its attitude towards the changes in the use of yashmak, were tried to be understood. An independent study on the use of yashmak was encountered in the literature. It is important to understand the use of yashmak, which is a complementary element of the veiling, which is one of the focal points of the discussions on modernity and the addressee of the change, in terms of the meaning it contains. The study, which is limited to Istanbul as a location, covers the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. Using historical document analysis and qualitative research methods, the changes in the use of yashmak, which can be evaluated in the context of the prototype of modernity, and the states approach to the subject were examined. Although no independent study specifically addressing the use of yashmak was found as a result of the literature research, a general framework was created on the subject by making use of archive documents and historical sources that include deficiencies related to the subject, as well as literary works, accounts of travelers who were living witnesses of the period, newspaper reports, and works written by ladies of the Ottoman dynasty who wrote their memoirs. As a result of the findings obtained, the change in the use of yashmak or the attempts of women to relax the rules of hijab in general can be evaluated as the visible part of the social change. Women probably knew what kind of problems they could encounter if they acted contrary to the rules imposed by the order they were in. However, this was not perceived as a sufficient reason for them to dress as dictated by the law. In fact, this imposed style of clothing was rejected by women and the use of appropriate yashmak continued to occupy the agenda as an unpatchable problem.

 Osmanlı Devletinde kadınların geleneksel sokak giysisi, ferace ve onun tamamlayıcı unsuru olan yaşmaktı. Bu çalışmada feraceden ziyade yaşmak kullanımı konu edinilmiştir. Yaşmak iki parça olup genelde tülbentten oluşan ve kullanımı zorunlu bir örtüydü. Bir parçası ile baş, diğeri ile de yüz örtülürdü. XVI. yüzyıldan itibaren genel olarak İstanbulda yaşmak kullanıldığı bilinmektedir. Öncesinde de bazı değişikliklerin yaşandığı bu örtünme biçimi XVIII. yüzyıla gelindiğinde Osmanlı elitini temsil eden kadınlar arasında rahatsızlık duyulacak şekilde esnetilmiştir. Kadınlar kural olarak yaşmakları ile yüzlerini örterek sokağa çıkmaktaydılar; ancak tesettür amacıyla kullanılması gereken bu yüz örtüsü, örtüden ziyade bir süs unsuruna dönüşmüştür. Bilhassa İstanbulun sosyete kadınları arasında modaya dönüşen yaşmaklar inceldikçe incelmiş ve üzerine örtüldüğü kadının yüzünün rahatlıkla görünmesini sağlayan bir tüle dönüşmüştür. Üstelik değişen sadece yaşmakların niteliği de değildir; bir üst giysi olarak kullanılan feraceler de bu değişimden nasibini almıştır. Devlet bu değişime karşı sert tedbirler almış, tehditkâr söylemler ihtiva eden türlü emirnameler yayımlamıştır. Osmanlı Devletinin bekasının İslâm dini ile mümkün olduğu belirtilerek Müslüman kadınların İslâmın şiarına uygun şekilde giyinmeleri gerektiği ifade edilmiştir. Bu çalışmada, dini bir zorunluluk olarak örtünme ile ilgili genel hususlar belirtildikten sonra devletin başkenti İstanbul özelinde yaşmak kullanımı, kullanım yaşı ve zaman içerisindeki değişimi detaylı bir şekilde irdelenmiştir. Devletin kadınların tesettür kurallarını esnetme girişimleri, özelde ise yaşmak kullanımı konusunda yaşanan değişimlere karşı tavrı anlaşılmaya çalışılmıştır. Modernite tartışmalarının odak noktalarından biri olan değişimin muhatabındaki tesettürün, tamamlayıcı bir unsuru olan yaşmak kullanımının anlaşılması ehemmiyet arz etmektedir. Mekân olarak İstanbul ile sınırlandırılan çalışmanın dönemsel aralığı XIX. yüzyıl ve XX. yüzyılın başlarını ihtiva etmektedir. Tarihi belge analizi ve nitel araştırma yöntemlerinden istifade edilerek, modernitenin prototipi bağlamında değerlendirilen yaşmak kullanımında yaşanan değişimler ve buna mukabil devletin konuya yaklaşımı incelenmiştir. Yapılan literatür araştırmaları neticesinde hassaten yaşmak kullanımını konu edinen müstakil bir çalışmaya rastlanmamıştır. Çalışmada konu ile ilintili aksaklıklara yer veren arşiv vesikaları ve tarihi kaynakların yanı sıra edebi eserler, dönemin canlı tanıkları olan seyyahların aktarımlarına yer verilmiştir. Ayrıca gazete haberleri, Osmanlı hanedanına mensup hanımların anılarını kaleme aldıkları eserlerinden de istifade edilerek konu hakkında genel bir çerçeve oluşturulmuştur. Elde edilen bulgular neticesinde yaşmak kullanımında yaşanan değişim veya genel olarak kadınların tesettür kurallarını esnetme girişimleri, toplumsal değişimin görünen kısmı olarak değerlendirilebilir. Kadınlar, içinde bulundukları düzenin dayattığı kuralların aksine hareket ettiklerinde ne tür sorunlar ile karşılaşabileceklerini muhtemelen biliyorlardı. Ancak bu onların yasaların emrettiği şekilde giyinmeleri için yeterli bir neden olarak algılanmamıştır. Nitekim dayattırılan bu giyim tarzı kadınlar tarafından reddedilmiş ve uygun yaşmak kullanımı yama tutmayan bir sorun niteliğinde gündemi birkaç asır boyunca meşgul etmeye devam etmiştir.

Makale detayları

The Use of “Yaşmak” in the Capital Istanbul in the Late Ottoman Empire

Yazarlar:

Abdulhalim Oflaz | Makul Yıldırım

Yayıncı:

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan University

Ana Başlıklar:

Karşılaştırmalı Dini Araştırmalar | İslam Araştırmaları (Diğer)

Dergi:

Rize İlahiyat Dergisi Issue 29, pp.135-150

Belge Tipi:

Makale

Yayın Tarihi:

10/2025

Belge Dili:

Türkçe

Document ID (Org No.):

2001340747

pISSN:

2980-0331

History

Ottoman Empire

Istanbul

Women

YashmakTarih

Osmanlı Devleti

İstanbul

Kadın

Yaşmak.

Sayı

Makale detayları

Yazarlar: Abdulhalim Oflaz | Makul Yıldırım

Yayıncı: Recep Tayyip Erdoğan University

Ana Başlıklar: Karşılaştırmalı Dini Araştırmalar | İslam Araştırmaları (Diğer)

Dergi: Rize İlahiyat Dergisi Issue 29, pp.135-150

Belge Tipi: Makale

Yayın Tarihi: 10/2025

Belge Dili: Türkçe

Document ID (Org No.): 2001340747

pISSN: 2980-0331

Sayı

Yazarlar:

Abdulhalim Oflaz | Makul Yıldırım

Yayıncı:

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan University

Ana Başlıklar:

Karşılaştırmalı Dini Araştırmalar | İslam Araştırmaları (Diğer)

Dergi:

Rize İlahiyat Dergisi Issue 29, pp.135-150

Belge Tipi:

Makale

Yayın Tarihi:

10/2025

Belge Dili:

Türkçe

Document ID (Org No.):

2001340747

pISSN:

2980-0331